Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Historical Raviolis! The fourth filling (somewhat English)

See the previous post from September 1 for the dough recipe and first filling recipe, the September 15 one for the second filling, and also the October 1 one for the third filling.

My daughter and I decided to experiment with 14th and 15th century recipes for raviolis.  We had to redact the recipes ourselves, working from the lists given but having to figure out quantities by taste and goal.

We were working from a website that looked like a good class handout for a Society for Creative Anachronism workshop, called "Pasta Class" and found at this link:  http://www.katjaorlova.com/PastaClass.html

After successfully redacting three fillings for boiled raviolis, we decided to try a fried version.  The Pasta Class document lists some fried raviolis and some other books we perused mentioned them, too.  We wanted something sweet, so we adapted the recipe for Emeles, a medieval almond cake, as the filling.

England + Italy = Middle East

2.5 ounces ground almonds
1/2 ounce graham cracker crumbs
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
3/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
3 tablespoons honey



Mix the ingredients well.  Like in the previous filling recipe, we chose not to use an egg to bind the mixture for two reasons:  one was that we made a small amount of filling and one egg might have been too much and the other was that the honey seemed to be doing a good job of binding by itself.  It went into the refrigerator while we worked on the dough.

We used graham cracker crumbs because I already had them handy.  Dried bread crumbs would work well, too.

The mixture turned out to look like what we expected for the Emeles:


Nutty, sweet, and spiced
We made a second batch of dough only this time I added a tablespoon of sugar to the flour.  By the way, I had to add a lot more flour to the recipe to get the right texture for rolling.  I am convinced the original recipe contains a typo.



We rolled the entire batch out into a rectangle, cut it in half, and covered one half with a damp towel to keep it from drying out.  



We scored the bottom dough and portioned out the filling.  Oops!  There was not enough filling for what we planned, so we used some of the leftover cheddar/bacon/chicken filling for the rest.


I should have doubled the filling amounts as I had first planned
Then we wet the scored edges and placed the top dough, pushing out the air and making neat little packets, then cut them apart.



This time I fried them a few at a time in about 1/4 inch of hot vegetable oil until they were a delightful brown on both sides and crispy.


Too many at once and the oil has a hard time staying at the right temperature
After that I drained them on paper towels and dusted them with a cinnamon and cardamom sugar mix.




The Verdict

This was incredibly tasty.  In fact, they tasted like mini-baklavas!  We were not expecting that and it was quite a treat.  They were crispy, spicy-sweet, and nutty with a depth of flavor from the honey.  They were not greasy -- I credit frying only a few at a time.

Success!

The only thing I would change is that we didn't roll the dough out to be as thin as we had for the boiled raviolis.  It wasn't translucent.  I think the raviolis would have been crispier if we had.  I'm not complaining, mind you!  They were delicious.  I would do it again to surprise people with the flavor.

One thought:  If I were feeling lazy or in a hurry, I might use purchased won-ton skins instead.  They are thin and pre-cut and I know they fry up well.


Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Historical Raviolis! The third filling (Italy)

See the previous post from September 1 for the dough recipe and first filling recipe and also the September 15 one for the second filling.

My daughter and I decided to experiment with 14th and 15th century recipes for raviolis.  We had to redact the recipes ourselves, working from the lists given but having to figure out quantities by taste and goal.

We were working from a website that looked like a good class handout for a Society for Creative Anachronism workshop, called "Pasta Class" and found at this link:  http://www.katjaorlova.com/PastaClass.html

This third filling was chosen partially because of the fun name and the rest because it was set up to accept most any kind of herb.  We chose basil.

Ravioli ready to serve of herbs fantastic, Libro di cucina, 15th Century

If you want to make ravioli of herbs or of other things, take herbs and peel (take leaves only) and wash well; then boil it a little and pull them out and squeeze away all the water.  Chop with a knife and put in a mortar and take cheese fresh and strained, egg and spices sweet and strong and mix well together and make a paste.  Then take  thin pasta in the way of lasagne and take a large amount and make the ravioli.  When they are made put to cook and when they are well cooked powder above enough spices with good cheese and they are good.


Our Redaction
2 cups of basil leaves, lightly packed
1 ounce Provel cheese, softened*
1 ounce Pecorino Romano cheese, shredded
1/8 tsp Poudre Fines**
*Provel is a St. Louis, Missouri specialty cheese that can be read about here.  You can use mozzarella or provolone in its place.  My daughter finds these wonders and brings them for me to try.   : )
** Poudre Fines is a medieval spice mix that came home with me from the Culinary Symposium I attended in March.  It is a blend of cinnamon, cloves, ginger, grains of paradise, pepper, and saffron, all ground.  
We used more basil than what is shown here.
To cook the basil, we treated it like spinach and cooked it with just the water that stuck from washing it.  The 2 cups reduced quickly to a little lump in the pan.  

After squeezing out the water, we chopped the basil to bits.  Then we mixed in the cheeses and spices.  We decided that our quantity was so small that an egg was unnecessary -- the Provel bound everything together well.  We chilled the filling and that made it easier to handle.
Well mixed after well chopped
We used one quarter of the pasta dough, rolled thinly and then scored as we did for the previous two recipes.  

Then they were covered and cut.  Using the same hot broth water from the other raviolis, we boiled them for just a few minutes.  

The Verdict
Success!  This was excellent, too.  Three great flavors in a row!  I love the taste of basil (it is one of my favorite herbs/spices and makes me happy just to sniff it) so this was fun to eat.  Of the three tasters, one said it was her favorite flavor, one said it was her second favorite, and the third thought the basil was too strong.  
I thought the cheese moderated the basil flavor well and gave a creamy texture to the otherwise herbaceous mouth feel.  I liked it plain but also with a light dusting of grated Parmesan cheese.
We did these three fillings as boiled raviolis.  The fourth, in the next post, was fried.


Monday, September 15, 2014

Historical Raviolis! The second filling (Italy)

See the previous post from September 1 for the dough recipe and first filling recipe.

My daughter and I decided to experiment with 14th and 15th century recipes for raviolis.  We had to redact the recipes ourselves, working from the lists given but having to figure out quantities by taste and goal.

We were working from a website that looked like a good class handout for a Society for Creative Anachronism workshop, called "Pasta Class" and found at this link:  http://www.katjaorlova.com/PastaClass.html

We learned from the first filling, Ravieles, #8, that what we needed was enough of something soft and mixable to make the mixture cohesive.  In that recipe we used butter.  In this one, we used softened cream cheese.

Ravioli, #10, from The Neapolitan Recipe Collection, 15th Century Italian

Get a pound and a half of old cheese and a little fresh creamy cheese, and a pound of bacon or of loin of veal that should be well boiled, then chopped; get ground fragrant herbs, pepper, cloves, ginger and saffron, adding in a well ground breast of chicken; mix all of this well together; make a thin dough and wrap the mixture in it the size of a nut; set these ravioli to cook in the fat broth of a capon or of some other good meat, adding a little saffron, and let them boil for half an hour; then set them out in dishes, garnished with a mixture of grated cheese and good spices.

Our Redaction of the Filling


2 1/4 (or so) ounces of shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1 ounce cream cheese at room temperature
2 slices thick bacon, cooked to slightly crispy and well-drained
1 tablespoon shallot, finely chopped
1/4 tablespoon fresh parsley, finely chopped
1/4 tablespoon fresh oregano or marjoram, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon Poudre Fines*
1 boneless, skinless chicken thigh, about 4 ounces raw 
   (what we like; breast would work too, I think)
2 pinches of salt

*Poudre Fines is a medieval spice mix of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, grains of paradise, and saffron, all ground.  Have some fun mixing your own version or use the spices they list in the recipe.  You don't need much unless you want to store it for other uses.


And salt, if needed
Mix the cheddar and cream cheeses well.  Chop the bacon into small pieces and mix with the cheeses.  Add the shallot, parsley, oregano, and spices; mix well.  

Cut the chicken into chunks and saute' in the bacon grease until no longer pink.  


Put in food processor or mortar and process until a paste.  Mix with the cheeses.  

Taste for salt and add a pinch or two as needed.  The bacon and cheese might be salty enough.

After everything is mixed well, put into covered container and refrigerate.   Makes about 3/4 of a cup.


Tasty as is
Filling the Dough

We used half of the pasta dough recipe listed in the previous post.  It was rolled until it was translucent and did not want to stretch any more.  Half was set aside for the top: be sure to cover it with a damp cloth so it doesn't dry out while you are working with the filling.

We scored the bottom layer to show where the filling should go.  




After each lump of filling was placed and seams dampened with a bit of water, the top dough was tugged to fit and tucked in around the filling, pressing out the trapped air.

The flat parts were pressed to seal them and then the raviolis were cut apart.


Cooking the Raviolis


We dropped in each ravioli one at a time into the same broth-flavored, strongly simmering water as used for the first filling.  After two minutes (not thirty!), they were removed, drained, and tasted.





The Verdict


This was really good, too.  Success!  I was surprised the flavors weren't stronger but I liked the cheddar and bacon combination.  The other flavors were in the background, making the overall taste richer in a subtle way.  The shallots, though uncooked like in the first filling, were not too strong.  The chicken didn't add much flavor although I think it added body and texture.


Our modern palates expected a familiar taste from the cheddar-bacon-chicken combination but that is not what we got.  We believe the Poudre Fines shifted it to a more medieval flavor, a subtle spicy depth.

All three of us liked it and one of us thought it was her favorite.


If I were to change anything, I would add more spices so they stood out more.  I would add more bacon, too, just to punch up its flavor contribution.  Overall though, it tasted good; just more subdued than the first filling.


LATER:  The flavors were much improved after reheating.  The bacon-cheddar combination were pleasantly strong.  The raviolis were excellent heated with a little Parmesan cheese and no other sauce.

My daughter's conclusion (and I heartily agree) was that this filling just needed some more cooking to have the flavors really work.  Perhaps having the filling at room temperature before stuffing the dough?  That way the pasta doesn't get over-cooked.  Failing that, reheating is an excellent solution.

Monday, September 1, 2014

Historical Raviolis! The pasta dough and first filling

My daughter and I wanted to make some raviolis because she has never made pasta before.  We decided to utilize this website:  Medieval Pasta: History, Preparation, and Recipes by Dame Katja Davidova Orlova Khazarina of Robakovna, which looks to me like a Society of Creative Anachronism (SCA) name.  


Pasta making, Scappi, 1570
Dame Katja offers a variety of historical pasta recipes from authentic books:  lasagna, raviolis, gnocchi, dumplings, pasta pastries, macaroni, and more.  We chose 

Ravieles, #8, from the Two Anglo-Norman Culinary Collections, 14th Century


Ravioli, #10, from The Neapolitan Recipe Collection, 15th Century Italian


Ravioli ready to serve of herbs fantastic, from the Libro di cucina, 15th Century


and also used the ideas of the sweet, fried pastas to concoct our own, historically-inspired filling.


The next several posts will cover those individually.  We redacted the recipes ourselves using cheeses we had on hand.  We made a double batch of pasta dough and a small amount of each type of filling so we had enough dough to try all four.  


This post contains the pasta recipe and the Ravieles, #8.


First, The Pasta


The recipes just call for a paste of flour and water, sometimes suggesting saffron or sugar to be added too.  We wanted more guidance on it, so we turned to our trusty friend, The Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker (1984 edition). 



On page 213 there is a recipe recommended for raviolis as long as you cut and fill the dough before it dries.  They state that if you are a beginner, do not try to make noodles in damp weather.  The humidity was up for my area (70%) but there was no rain or clouds so we hoped that would work for us.


White or Green Noodle Dough or Fettuccine


On a large pastry board or marble tabletop make a well of:


2/3 cup all purpose flour

Drop into it:

1 egg

barely combined with :

1 tablespoon water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon oil


The salt made it into the picture this time
Work the mixture with your hands, folding the flour over the egg until the dough can be rolled into a ball and comes clean from the hands.  ...  Knead the dough as for bread, about 10 minutes.  Then let it stand, covered, about 1 hour. 

Our Notes

We made a double batch and mixed it on the counter top by hand.



The egg mixture overfilled the well but it was not a problem
When the dough started forming a ball and sticking more to itself than to our hands, we started kneading it.  *We did have to add a few more tablespoons of flour to get rid of the very sticky aspect of the dough.*  


Almost there
When the dough felt damp but firm and was barely sticking to anything, we put it aside to stand.  Did we knead for ten minutes?  We forgot to check the time!  But we were aiming for a dough that would hold together well when stretched and that is what we got.


Done!
Due to a variety of reasons, the dough stood on the counter for about three hours.  It was covered so we didn't worry about it drying out.  The benefit was that the dough was easy to stretch to thin and translucent, just like the "foile" some of the recipes mention.

After that, we wrapped it in plastic tightly and put it into the refrigerator.


Next:  The First Filling, Ravieles, #8

Take fine flour and sugar and make pasta dough; take good cheese and butter and cream them together; then take parsley, sage, and shallots, chop them finely, and put them in the filling. Put the boiled ravieles on a bed of grated cheese and cover them with more grated cheese, then reheat them.

Our redaction

3 ounces of provolone

7/8 ounce by weight of salted butter, softened
2 teaspoons finely chopped shallot
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon dried sage


Double or triple quantities at will
Chop the provolone into very small pieces.  Cream with the butter until the cheese bits stick together in a clump.  Add the shallot, parsley, and sage, mixing it well together.


A close up:  everything is chopped fine 
Taste the mix!  We got the tang of the provolone balanced with the shallot's oniony zing and some of the parsley flavor.  A few seconds later the sage washed across our taste buds.  The butter is very subtle as it really just acts like a binder.

Pack into a covered container (makes about 1/2 cup) and refrigerate.

Assembling the Ravieles



This is half of the dough
We used about 1/4 of the dough, rolled out thin enough to read through it.  We had to mix in some more flour as it was still too sticky.  Now we have a better idea of how dry the dough should feel in order to make good pasta.  


Translucent!
After splitting the dough into two parts (top and bottom), we lightly scored the bottom dough to mark where each raviele would be and then spooned the chilled filling to fit inside.  


Yes, nine from one fourth of the dough
We felt it was important to leave a wide margin of dough around the filling since we were new to getting the little pillows sealed properly.  There was no need to be conservative here!

Next we rubbed water between the filling piles and placed the other thin sheet of dough on top.  After stretching the top sheet a bit to better fit the bottom sheet, we pushed the dough down onto the filling with the idea to press out the air.  Each pile was sealed all around and then we trimmed them into individual pieces.


Sealed, ready to be cut apart
Cooking the Ravieles

A large pan filled with water flavored with beef broth and a bit of saffron was brought to a strong simmer.  The ravieles were dropped in individually, stirred gently, and cooked for two minutes.  

Afterwards they were fished out with strainer, drained, and placed in a bowl.  Even though the recipe says to cover it with more cheese, we were interested in tasting them just as they were.


Yum
The Verdict

Oh wow.  This was really tasty!  Three of us tasted and it was my favorite and the second favorite of the other two.  I liked that the flavor was not distinctly any one of the ingredients but a blend that made it intriguing on the tongue.  It was stronger than I expected and that was a pleasant surprise.  When I thought about it, I could distinguish the sage flavor from the rest and could taste the butter in the creamy, cheesy texture.  But in all honesty, it was just an exciting flavor blend.

Definitely a success.

If I were to change anything, I would have microwaved or otherwise cooked the shallot a bit to reduce its impact.  The few minutes in the hot broth did not cook it enough to remove its bite.  But that was when I was actively trying to find something to change about the filling.  Not bad for a 700 year old idea!







Friday, August 15, 2014

Maccharruni con Pesto Trapanese (Sicily)

The wonderful thing about having my daughter visit is that we break out the cookbooks and start planning what we want to cook together within just a few hours of her arrival.  We have been talking about pasta and want to try making ravioli but our first foray together into my new kitchen was to make this Sicilian pesto sauce.  It is an interesting variation on what we know as a standard pesto.

It comes from what is becoming a favorite book, A Mediterranean Feast by Clifford A. Wright.  I find myself drawn to the simplicity of the recipes and how they are presented with the history of each area.  The types of ingredients appeal to me, too, as I love tomatoes, basil, lamb, mint, chicken, and fish.

ISBN 0-688-15305-4
On pages 468 - 469 he describes life in Sicily in the fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries.  Their cuisine focused on fresh vegetables and seafood, fava beans and chickpeas, eggs and cheese.  Almonds, olives, and bread were available.  Meat, though not common, increased in quantity over those centuries and included beef, castrato (castrated lamb), salt pork, and veal.  Mr. Wright speculates that tomatoes "probably came to Sicily between 1510 and 1540, when Sicily was under Spanish rule."

I have an abundance of basil both inside my kitchen and out on my patio and need to use it up.  The sauce in this recipe caught my attention because it is not your standard basil pesto recipe:  instead of Parmesan or Romano cheese and pine nuts, it uses almonds and fresh tomato puree.

Macaroni with Pesto in the Style of Trapani

Salt
1 pound macaroni
4 ounces blanched whole almonds
4 garlic cloves, peeled
1 small bunch fresh basil (40 to 50 large leaves), stems discarded
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup fresh tomato puree (not canned), without skins or seeds

And salt
1. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, salt abundantly, and add the pasta.  Drain the pasta when al dente.

2. Meanwhile, grind the almonds, garlic, basil leaves, salt, and pepper together in a food processor.  Slowly add the olive oil in a thin stream through the feed tube while the machine is still running and process until smooth.  Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the tomato puree.  Toss the macaroni with the sauce and serve.

My Notes

I felt lazy and did not blanch the almonds.

My four garlic cloves consisted of two big ones and two medium-sized ones while the basil had a lot of small leaves so we used closer to 60 leaves.  I used about 1/2 teaspoon of pepper and less of salt.

The fresh tomatoes were peeled, cut in half length-wise, cored and seeded, then chopped into chunks to make them easier to process.

The puree was a pretty pink and the pesto mixture never got smooth really but the almonds were fine-textured.  Mixing the puree into the pesto lightened the entire mix.

Puree

Basil, garlic, almonds, salt, and pepper

With the olive oil added

The final sauce
The Verdict

We were both disappointed in the flavor of the pesto sauce.  It had mostly a garlic bite and we couldn't really get much basil or tomato flavor out of it.  The almonds added body to the whole thing and I liked that very much.

It is a good sauce for macaroni as it sticks to the pasta and coats it well.


I cannot call this a success but I strongly suspect the problem was with my ingredients.  I want to try this again with tomatoes that are mushy ripe, basil that is younger, and less garlic.  I also would add more salt and pepper.  I'm not sure if I would try blanching the almonds or not as I like how robust the unblanched ones made the sauce.

Mr. Wright's notes say, "Traditionally, cheese is not served with this dish."  We found that adding grated Parmesan cheese to our pasta at the table improved the flavor, which we probably would not want to do if the pesto was more flavorful.

One aspect my daughter pointed out was that the dish was visually very dull.  She wanted more color in it.  I wanted to add chunks of fresh, ripe tomatoes, too.

LATER:  While I was eating the leftovers I realized that the flavor was better (the garlic was not as pronounced and the almonds came through more) but what I really wanted with it was olive oil soaked, sun-dried tomatoes.  That would have made it more visually interesting and bumped up the excitement of the flavor.


Friday, August 1, 2014

Potted Beef -- A Very Olde Technique

My new kitchen is nearly complete now.  I was able to use the stove top to cook this post's recipe.  The new oven is installed but needs to be used without food for a while to clean up the manufacturing oils and the like.  At least that is the plan!  My hope is to show off some pictures of the kitchen in the next blog post.

The other day I received a big box of cookbooks from a nice lady who gave them away on Freecycle.  This is a website where people can offer items they no longer want but they must give them for free.  I have used Freecycle for about five years now, often giving and sometimes taking.  I recommend it if you have a group in your area.

One of the books was a 1979 publication called The Epicure's Book of Steak and Beef Dishes by Marguerite Patten, "one of Britain's most highly considered cookery experts."  Many of the recipes look tasty and tempting however the one on page 147 caught my attention.

Too big to fit on the scanner!
Ms. Patten put this in the chapter "Wise Economy" because it is perfect for "any really inexpensive cut of beef."  Why did it capture my attention?  She says "This old-fashioned way of preparing beef has been used for centuries and is a forerunner of today's sophisticated pâtés."  I know from my reading that she is right; the potted meat recipe I am most familiar with is potted shrimp.  It is designed to keep the fragile seafood edible for longer than usual without modern refrigeration; the technique is to embed the shrimp in a pot of melted butter then store it in a cool place.  The fat keeps out the air which would spoil the flesh quickly.

Her recipe is very workable with old-fashioned cooking techniques as she specifies using a grinder and then a mortar and pestle.  I, however, hauled out my trusty food processor and completed the heavy labor in a matter of minutes.

"Potted meat is used as a sandwich filling or served as an hors d'oeuvre instead of a pâté."

Potted Beef

1.  Simmer the meat in a minimum of liquid until tender, adding salt and pepper to taste.  The cooking time naturally depends upon the cut of meat you have chosen.

2.  Grind the cooked meat once or twice until very fine, then put into a mixing bowl, add 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) of melted butter to each 1 lb cooked meat, a pinch of powdered mace, 1 tbsp brandy or dry sherry, and any extra salt and pepper to taste.

3.  Pound firmly; the old-fashioned pestle and mortar is ideal for this purpose.

4.  Spoon into several small container and top with a layer of melted butter.

To serve:  With lemon and hot toast, or with a salad garnish.

To freeze:  This freezes well for up to one month.

To vary: Meat from a roast may be used, but it should not be the outer parts which have become slightly firm and maybe a little crisp.

And salt!
My Notes

I used a beef chuck cross rib steak which weighed about one pound.  I chose to use brandy because I know from previous blog posts that brandy and mace or nutmeg are an excellent flavor duo.

The meat was cut into two pieces so it fit nicely in the bottom of a saucepan with just enough water to go up 3/4 of the height of the meat.  The fire was set to the lowest possible setting and I put the lid on the pan.  It took about 60 minutes before I decided the beef was tender enough.  I did not put any salt or pepper in it at this stage.

Once the beef was cooked, I put the pieces in the food processor and pulsed it until the meat was finely chopped.


Then I added the melted 1/4 cup salted butter, 1 tbsp brandy, pinch of mace, and about 1/2 tsp of pepper with 1/8 - 1/4 tsp of salt.  I pulsed it some more and saw the meat get finer in texture but not to the point of mush.  I tasted the mixture then adjusted the amount of salt and pepper slightly until my taste buds danced with joy at the flavors.  Just a little tang of salt and nudge of pepper highlighted the brandy/mace combination.  The meat was a background flavor that tied it all together and the butter made the texture creamy with an excellent mouthfeel.


This quantity fit easily into a two cup glass container.  I felt it was important to pack the mix down.

Packed but I didn't push out all the air bubbles.
I melted the rest of the stick of butter and poured it over the top.  The whole thing went into the refrigerator overnight.

Melted butter on top.

The Verdict

My first taste was when it was right out of the refrigerator:  too cold to spread or get any flavor.  After I let it sit out on the counter for a while, the flavors really came through!  The brandy and mace duo was not as pronounced as before refrigeration and that actually was a good thing -- they blended with meat, butter, salt, and pepper to make a delightful, lightly meaty spread on a whole grain cracker.  Sometimes I got a little dance of pepper on my tongue and other times I got a whiff of brandy.  The variety of tastes with each bite was intriguing.  Success!

The only problem was the potted beef tended to crumble when I spread it.  If it had been processed to more of a smooth paste, I think that would not have been an issue.  Still, that did not stop me from taking more, and more, and more.  This is definitely a make-ahead item perfect for a potluck or appetizer board.  Just plan on letting it come to room temperature before serving.

I liked the butter coating on top (mmmm!  butter!) but consider scraping it off before serving if you think your guests might not want a bite of pure butter on their cracker or with their spread.

Air bubbles not recommended for long term storage.
I found a nice essay on potted meat by Thehistoricfoodie's Blog that explains well the methods and reasonings:  "Potted Meat and Cheese,  Early Convenience Foods".  I think if I needed to store my potted meat results, I would have processed it until it was like a paste so I could push out the air bubbles.  My first impulse would be to add some water to it but that is definitely the wrong tack.  Water allows air and air is what spoils the meat.  I would add more butter if necessary as the fat seals the meat against the air.  Even if some bacteria was still in the meat, the lack of air would keep it from growing quickly.



Tuesday, July 15, 2014

Stuffed Dates -- The "No Kitchen" Challenge

The kitchen remodel is moving along well:  the new cabinetry is in along with the improved LED lighting.  All that is needed now is the counter top, touch up paint, some tiling, and the electrical outlets and light switches.

So my challenge for this post was to make something that didn't require an oven or stove, although using the microwave was acceptable.  The problem was lack of preparation space and keeping the number of dirty dishes to a minimum.  (I'm still washing dishes in the bathroom sink.)

After due consideration (honest, it wasn't a total panic!) I realized that I could make something I have made in my historical cooking demonstrations in the past.  Stuffed dates have always been a hit -- sweet, creamy, and with cinnamon.

Normally I make this with the green cheese I posted earlier on this blog.  You should try it, too!  I think it makes a better product.  For my challenge, though, I used cream cheese.

I know this recipe is medieval or Renaissance English.  If I can find it in a book some time, I'll post the reference.  Right now I'm working from memory.

Stuffed Dates

Pitted dates (I used about 1 pound)
Cream cheese (8 ounces was more than enough)
A plain sweet bread or cake (I used a purchased, frozen pound cake)
Cinnamon, ground (I used about 1 1/2 teaspoons)
Pepper, ground (I used about 1/8 teaspoon)


Soften the cream cheese (10 seconds in the microwave was just right).  Mix in the cinnamon and pepper.

Crumble 6 to 8 ounces of the pound cake and mix the crumbs into the cream cheese mixture.  The idea is to make the mixture stiffer and drier than plain cream cheese.  *I had better results with the green cheese.  That turned into a dough-like consistency and the spices stayed as distinct specks. Very attractive.*  The cream cheese remained a bit sticky and the spices turned it light brown.  Still, I'm not complaining!

Taste the cheese mixture:  It should have the slight tang of cream cheese but the cinnamon should be dominant.  If not, add more cinnamon.  The pepper should not be obvious.  It just adds a depth of flavor to the cinnamon.

The cheese filling, complete
Put the cheese into the refrigerator for a little while.  In the mean time, slice the pitted dates lengthwise on one side into the pit opening.  Don't cut them in half!


Using a spoon, put some of the cheese mixture into the date.  Put in enough to have some of it poke out through the slit.  I tried to make mine decorative but was only partially successful.

Once the dates were all filled, I dusted them with an extra bit of cinnamon to give them a visual as well as a flavor boost.

TA DA!
The Verdict

Very tasty, as usual! The dates are certainly sweet enough and the cheese mixture adds a creamy, cinnamon-spicy counterflavor to make them special.  The size is just right for two bites or so.  That keeps it from being overwhelmingly sweet.  It is a good finger food, too, although somewhat sticky.  They could be served at a buffet as a curiosity.  People who like dates tend to enjoy them!

I had some cheese mixture left over, so I spread some on the left over pound cake.  Tasty but too soft for me.  I wanted some chopped nuts with it.  My guest taste tester and assistant preparer, who doesn't like chopped nuts, thought it was good as it was.

In the past when I have had left over cheese mixture, I added chopped raisins and rolled them into little balls.  That is another handy way to serve them.  They might be even more attractive with a dusting of cinnamon, too.

If I were to do this over again, I would probably use ricotta cheese and drain it first.  I like the tang of the cream cheese but mixture was stickier than I really like.

By the way, you can probably cut the dates in half and stuff each half.  There is nothing wrong with that!

Tuesday, July 1, 2014

Something Different: A Culinary Symposium

My kitchen does not exist right now.  It is four walls with new electrical work and lights but no cabinets, counters, or appliances.  The remodel is moving along well!  For this post, I thought it would be fun to tell you about the culinary symposium I attended last March.

The West Coast Culinary Symposium is an event put on by the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA).  Their web page promised "a chance for like-minded and enthusiastic people to get together and share their love and knowledge of pre-1600 period cooking and practices and share the tasty results.  It is also a time to gather as friends, make new ones, share ideas, and teach our skills to others hoping to learn."  All this came true and then some!  Excited historical cooks from all over the United States and some international travelers attended.

First, the Food 

The arrival evening was a "Traveler's Potluck" where we all brought something to share and the symposium supplied a variety of soups.  What an opportunity for showing off our skills! I brought my Deviled Eggs for Dessert, An Illusion Food which I posted on this blog on March 15, 2014.  But oh, the other offerings:  homemade cheeses, meat pies, pickled vegetables, artisan breads and spreads, fruit pies, Roman era gingerbread, and more.  Even taking small portions of these temptations didn't leave me enough room to taste all I wanted to try.

Asparagus Omelet
Onion Relish and Herbed Cheese Spread with pear slices
Meat Pie!  With pork, beef, chicken, and onions.
Meat Pie, the interior
Compost -- a medieval chutney


The groaning table
We also were served breakfast, lunch, dinner, and breakfast over the next two days.  These were cooked onsite by different groups and they all did fabulous jobs.  
Breakfast:  eggs, cheese, bacon, bread, apricot jam with rosewater, grapes, stewed greens
Lunch:  Porridge, cheese, red cabbage, sausages, onion relish, cheese, fruit, shortbread, various sauces
The lunch table:  I like how they served spreads in goblets
The dinner was particularly exciting as it was attended by the King and Queen of the kingdom.  Everyone went all out with the menu!

Elderberry cheesecake -- yum!
Meat pie as a peacock -- a subtlety
A meat stew subtlety, too
Homemade cheeses
One of my servings  : )  The chicken was baked with bacon and there is a nice spinach dish, too
You might have noticed that some dishes ended up being offered at two meals -- a very efficient way to use the leftovers.  But what was particularly nice was having leftover elderberry cheesecake for breakfast the next morning!
A good morning start
Oatmeal with stewed fruit
Next:  The Food Classes

I took three classes but got the benefit of a fourth in that they shared their food creations. 

In the Ottoman Turk cooking class we made several dishes, all tasty!  Most of the time my hands were busy helping out so I don't have a lot of pictures showing the preparation steps.  Also, with the construction going on, I can't find my notes.  Once I do, I'll update this post.

One recipe involved eggplants and gourds.  They were hollowed out, stuffed with a lamb and mint mixture, then steamed.  For serving they were sliced and adorned with a yogurt sauce and chopped mint.

Eggplant sliced open lengthwise and hollowed out
The hollowed gourd
Getting ready to steam
Slicing in anticipation of serving
What a lovely presentation! 
We also used a lamb and mint stuffing to fill up grape leaves.  A special addition to the mixture was "Golden Prunes" which are dried and have a lovely tart taste.  It added a zing to the mixture that I liked very much.  The stuffed leaves were steamed at the same time as the eggplant and gourds.

Stuffed, rolled, and ready for steaming
Steamed and ready for eating!
Another dish, absolutely yummy and a surprising combination of foods, contained cooked chicken that was deboned and shredded then mixed with noodles, grapes, and almonds.  I can't recall the sauce but will look it up later.
The noodles, uncooked
The finished dish
We also made a sweet treat, a type of folded pastry filled with an almond mixture.  There was a professional pastry chef in the class who assisted in the rolling, cutting, and closing the treats.
The dough for the treats
Aren't they cute?
The finished product.  YUM!  Hard to save some for others.
The afternoon class was about outdoor cooking.  The instructor had a neat portable fire pit that assembles from boards and uses sand and bricks to insulate the wood from the fire.  A metal structure fitted around it to provide a place to hang pots and spits.  The advantage of it coming apart is that the otherwise very heavy pit can be broken into easily carried pieces.

The ceramic pots are used as cloches
Notice the spitted roast is off to the side of the fire and has a drip pan beneath it.  The sand you see is only a few inches deep.
There was also a portable all metal fire pit that was fun to look at.  The ceramic pot is being used to help heat the charcoal faster and also to warm the pot up before it is placed over cooking food.

Love the medieval styling
The warmed cloche will go over the chicken, making a little oven and cooking the meat faster and more evenly
The class next door on Roman Empire cooking generously shared the results of their cooking.  I got to try some food items that were entirely new to me!  One item I didn't get a picture of was fried pig's ears.  Yes, you read that right.  They were sliced into strips and fried until they were chewy, tasty treats.  Not exciting from my point of view but certainly fun to try and tell people about.

Another surprise was the grilled pig nipples.  They were marinated in some lovely sauce and then we helped to grill them.  They, too, were chewy but I liked the bacon-y flavor and would definitely try them again.

Heading to the grill.  The specks are seeds in the marinade
Cooking up nicely.
I don't want you to think the pig nipples were the big surprise, though.  No, that honor belongs to the dish containing leeks, pine nuts, and ... wait for it ... pig uterus.  That's right:  sow's womb.  The sauce on the dish really brought the flavors together and made my tastebuds sing:  a taste of olive oil and spices.  The uteri made me think of slightly chewy macaroni, which is what they looked like, too.  In all seriousness, I would eat this dish again.  If I couldn't get uteri, I would use macaroni. 
Very, very tasty!
My last class was on subtleties and illusion foods.  These are foods designed to "fool the eye" into thinking it is something it is not.  The instructor was very knowledgeable, experienced, and creative.  She had brought pictures of some of her past creations and also taught us how to work with sugar paste using a store-bought gum paste mixture and rosewater.

The carrots are made of meat loaf mixture and the shrimp are really marzipan.
This is made of sugar paste!
Adorable hard-boiled egg mice
Tools of the sugar paste sculpting trade
Mixing the gum paste with rosewater to make a smooth dough
Creating!
Creations
More creations
Food Related Fun

The days were packed with good food, good learning, and good people!  We also had a keynote speaker and two competitions.  One was called "Mortal Peril" and consisted of categories with answers to which we had to provide the questions.  Anyone could participate in the first round and the top three winners went on to the final round.  Great fun!  The other competition was a spice identification challenge, where about 30 spices were put in numbered glass containers and the competitors were given a paper listing all the spice names.  We could look at, sniff, and taste the spices to identify them.  It was quite a challenge!  I was pleased with how many I got right.  

The Verdict

Overall it was exhausting, exhilarating, and worth every minute.  I'm so glad I was able to go!  Along with all the knowledge I got from the classes, I learned that I love elderberry cheesecake and anything with rosewater in it.  I came home with cookbooks, spices, a two-hundred year old sourdough starter, a ceramic alembic, and a strong desire to sculpt in sugar paste.  I met a lot of nice and interesting people, had conversations about all sorts of cooking styles and methods, enjoyed the mountain setting, and filled my stomach with tasty and exotic foods.  I am not a member of the SCA but everyone was friendly and welcoming and accommodated my lack of SCA social skills.  

This event has my hearty recommendation!